We awake feeling satisfied that we’ve explored almost everything the island has to offer. We finish packing our belongings.
I prepare for the two week trips (and more) by packing one carry-on sized backpack. A smaller bag is packed within and is used for my day trips like all of the travels between Greek islands. (this is my general rule for all travel except cruises, where you’ll also want to pack for additional things for dressy occasions)
We hop on the Poseidon Hotel’s shuttle that takes us to the waterfront. About 35 minutes later, our Ferry arrives quickly – like a Trojan Horse. The back opens and vehicles quickly move off and then on. Ferry Service in the islands is quick-quick! A stop to take a photo at the wrong time and you’ll be left standing on the dock as the ferry pulls away!
At one of the stops I stepped off to take a picture. The ramp agent on the back of the ferry yelled to me, “Are you coming?” I made a sprint for the ship as the door was squeaking and scrapping across the cement of the dock. I jumped unto the platform just as it began to raise. We were off to the next stop!
Upon returning to the Port of Piraeus we make the decision to walk to the hotel instead of employing a taxi. We figure the walk to be about 1-2 miles. Along the way we see the locals hustling others for lunch bargains, storefronts with familiar things for sale; shoes, hats, and electronics. The streets are typical for any large city; busy and filled with never-ending strings of taxis and motorcycles. The city also had its share of panhandlers and those working all the angles looking to make an extra buck. One should be aware of one elaborate scheme where a lady with an infant shows you her baby while reaching into your pockets! It is an interesting practice because they often display a fake “arm” while their actual arm is hidden within their clothing. You’ll be so engaged talking to them and looking at their baby you’ll never realize her other hand at work!
As we sit on a bench, rest for a moment and take in the sights, a stranger approaches and asks if either of us has an interest in buying an iPhone. He has “a supply” that he needs to sell “cheap”. I instinctually ask, “How cheap?”
“100 Euros each!” his response.
Wow, that is a great deal! I remember reading police will run sting operations for catching criminals. I wasn’t about to make any purchases but I am curious how the scam is run. The stranger asked my name several times before finally disappearing into the urban sprawl.
(On another day we see this same character running his sales campaign in the center of Athens almost 15 miles away. Surprisingly, he walks right up to me, addresses me by name, and asks if I’ve changed my mind!)
It’s early afternoon when we reach the hotel. We decide to freshen up and leave again, this time locating the subway system and heading into the heart of Athens to see what we can find. I like to visit local spas whenever possible. I poured over the phone book pages and using Google Maps I determine the most attractive spa. I am searching for an authentic Hammam type of experience. I assume, given the close proximity to Turkey, there must be some similar spas located in Athens. I call and make an appointment.
Walking from the hotel we are surprised how close we are to the subway system. The Port of Piraeus is located roughly 14 kilometers from the heart of Athens. We will change trains between Monastiraki and Onomia stations. One slight complication to our travel is that every stop seems to have at least two names, often there are three. Surprisingly, it only complicates things slightly. There are very detailed maps posted in the subway that describe all of the important information for travel. We found the most information not written in English. We do find the subway ticket agents very helpful and kind to strangers exploring their city for the first time. “Efcharisto!” (thank you)
The trip between the port and downtown, making one change of lines, is about 20-25 minutes. Initially, we are a bit apprehensive about the experience but quickly find it feels second nature. I would not hesitate to take the subway from the airport to an Athens hotel or port, on a return trip.
We look for the Spa and we walk and walk; not certain how to read/understand street names written in Greek. We call the Spa and she gives directions via street names (to me the street names sound nothing like the written form, and that’s if you can understand the pronunciation to begin with!) We could not resist saying, “…sounds Greek to me!”
We finally find the spa and find it’s located on the second floor of a high-rise building. I’m disappointed as I’m already expecting this will not be the traditional Hammam experience I was looking for. Upon arrival, we find a lady, with her cat waiting. No, this is definitely not the experience I was hoping for. “Efcharisto!” (thank you).
We spend the rest of the afternoon and early evening exploring the city. We fall in love with the place. What a beautiful living historical treasure! The spirit of the Greeks is welcoming and warm.
Late afternoon the next day we meet up with George again. He takes us to the Acropolis and Temple of Zeus. Sunset at the Parthenon? Absolutely a once in a lifetime highly recommended experience! I take a gazillion pictures. One of the highlights are pillars located at a temple just outside of the Parthenon. They are very distinctive ladies called the Parthenon Marbles (also called the Elgin Marbles).
The story goes that around 1801-1812 The 7th Earl of Elgin (Thomas Bruce) finds the beautifully sculptured pillars and sends them by sea back to Britton. He claims it is an effort to preserve them; to protect them from vandals and the destructive effects of the elements. They would be taken from Greece over concern for preservation. In later years, this becomes the center of controversy. The Greeks construct a proper world-class museum to house the treasures, but the Elgin Marbles will not be returned. It is a bitter pill to swallow by prideful Greeks. Eventually, the pillars are given to the British government. The British government, in turn, places them in the British Museum. To this day, these pillars are a sore point between the two countries. The exceptional museum is located within eyeshot of the Parthenon. It is dedicated to the preservation of the entire Acropolis. You will find a copy of the pillars (below) while the originals reside at the British Museum. (To be part of another “Journaling” post at another time.)
Interior Acropolis Museum B7W (photo G. Bessmer)
At some point we say “Anti Sas!” (goodbye) to George and we are left on our own to explore. We return to the Savoy via cab late in the evening. We will meet our driver George in the morning after breakfast for our return trip to Athens airport.
As we climb into bed relaxed and feeling nostalgic with all our many Greek experiences, I look at my phone one last time before sleep. There are a number of new messages. One from the US State Department and several from George. As I listen to messages, open emails and read texts, a very concerning story unfolds. Apparently, there’s another strike! This time it affects all taxi drivers. In sympathy, Air Traffic Controllers, Flight Attendants, and Pilots are also planning to stop work. This all goes into effect at 6:00 am! Our flight is at 6:30 am!
The US State Department suggests leaving for the airport ASAP and making changes to flights if possible. I called George (who was still up waiting for me to call him). “What do we do?”, I asked.
“I can’t be seen as a hired driver who crosses a picket line”, He said. “I tell you what, I’ll send my son with his family car to pick you up. Can you leave at 2 o’clock?”
“Yes!” I replied. “I’ll sort out the rest when we get to the airport. Maybe I’ll be calling you again!”
That night there was no time for sleep! We needed to be waiting in front of the hotel in just 2 and a half hours.
Soon, we are standing in front of the Air France ticket agent. She explains that our flight is designated “On Time” at 6:30 am. They will not cancel our flight. Further, our plane would be the last one of the day. Very much relieved we take our chairs and wait.
We board the Airbus 319 and take our seats. Every seat is filled as the stewardesses close the door and soon we are off and out of Athens’ airspace. Next Stop… Charles De Gaulle!