My trip to the Hawaiian Islands was multifaceted. I wanted to experience the places I love, especially after being sequestered at home for so long. I wanted to visit the islands Moloka’i and Lana’i because I had never been there before. I had a planned Malama. I wanted to talk to locals on each of the islands, visit the hotel properties, visit with a few tour operators, and take pictures: lots of pictures. After it all, I left the Hawai’ian Islands rejuvenated and even more excited to share these places.
The first stop of what would become known as my “Rainbow Tour” was to be Maui but, because of the many tourists already there, I changed my plans to increase my time on Moloka’i. I had never been to this island. I instantly fell in love. I find the locals have maintained a legendary connection with their ancestors, traditions, each other, even nature itself. The pace is slow. I heard comments from people on the other islands saying, “Moloka’i? There’s nothing to do!” Exactly! I think that’s the point here. Sssshhhhhhh! Moloka’i has plenty to keep you busy. You just need to be the right type of person to find the many things available. I’ve long held the belief that each island is different; there is one for every type of personality. This adventure reinforced that.
If you’d like some help figuring out which of the islands is the best fit for you, I’m available. It becomes a bit trickier when several people are traveling together, and each has their own idea of the perfect getaway. Again, with my experience, I can help!
I decided to stay at the Hotel Moloka’i. It is the only hotel on the island. There are five condominium projects and some sea cottages that accept visitors, but I chose Hotel Moloka’i solely because of a comment previously left on my Instagram page. This person suggested that I should visit the beach at sunset and to be certain to find the island’s hot Moloka’i bread, baked and sold in an alley at night. The Hotel Moloka’i is right on the ocean, with beautiful views. The onsite restaurant: Hiro’s Ohana Grill is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner on Sundays, closed on Mondays. It is open for lunch and dinner the rest of the week. My lunch at Hiro’s was delicious Garlic Chicken and steamed rice. Served with an ice-cold Pepsi, lunch was hot and delicious. For a table service only steps from the beach it was reasonably priced at about $18.
Just a few nights later, on another island, I would enjoy a similar meal with Ginger-ale and a glass of Prosecco for about $45. It was not as successful. More about that later.
My very first day on the island began at 5 am. I was on California time, so I did not mind at all. It gave me an opportunity to appreciate the very vocal birds of the island doing what comes naturally to them. I literally got up with the chickens. I had previously read in some of the hotel’s reviews that some people did not appreciate the island’s natural wake-up call. I would say this island is not a place for them!
I headed just up the road to the site of my pre-planned Malama. I had screen-grabbed a map of the area before I left the hotel, so it was easy to find. It’s worth noting that if you are one of those people who simply cannot exist without being connected 24/7 to the grid, this island is not the best fit for you. Personally, I loved it! What a great excuse, “Sorry, but I had no connection to the internet at the time. I’ll try and call you later if I can.”
It was a total fluke that on one of my long drives exploring the island, I discovered THE spot where a digital connection to the outside world happens. It was like going through a wormhole. Suddenly, I was able to not only have a voice connection, but also send a photo at the very same time! Once I discovered the SECOND “mile marker 2” I would plan a time to connect with those back on the mainland (and a friend on Maui). I would pack myself into the mint green rented Ford Fiesta and drive out to the other mile marker 2, and pull off the road. It worked every time! Strangely enough, I also found a strong digital connection during a snorkeling adventure, out in the ocean! What a pleasant surprise!
Back to the Malama, consisting of paying a donation to the nonprofit Ka Honua Momona Kaunakakai organization. I agreed to a 45-minute presentation along with a tour of the Ali’I fishpond. Bring your water shoes for cleaning the fishpond if you so desire. They can absolutely use the help with cleaning an invasive form of algae and Mangrove overgrowth. These have been constant battles for hundreds of years (or since the introduction of foreign invasive species of plants). They are working to restore a hale (outbuilding). I learned that parts of the basic structure need a bit of work. I also received instruction from one of the island’s elders on how to weave the palm branches into acceptable roofing material. If I’m not mistaken, it was “Uncle Bob” whose expertise was required for the project. I left the Malama after about three hours. I loved every bit of time I spent talking with the non-profit’s new director Tiani Cook and her intern. I learned so very much about the fishpond, people of the island, and even myself. I left with more questions than I had when I arrived. It appears to me that many of the locals are not as involved with the traditional cleaning of these fishponds as I had thought. This is an issue on other islands, as well.
These are issues not easily unraveled or solved. The bottom line is regardless of how locals find their cultural norms either as evolving traditions or not, visitors to the islands absolutely have a responsibility to be sensitive to local issues. Visitors must make an effort to respect the islands’ culture and history. There are many ways to do this. I believe most require a personal immersion. How about picking up plastics that are washed up on the beach or carelessly discarded by other visitors? Clearing hiking trails to feel close to the very dirt and plant growth of the sacred areas of the islands? One can do absolutely anything that demonstrates an unselfish “giving back” or Malama. Even a simple donation of money or time is a great exercise in putting yourself in the shoes of another. I can point you in the direction of Malamas on any of the islands. Some hotels will offer special discounts and even FREE night stays in exchange for a Malama performed.
One balmy evening, I found myself in a dark alley of “downtown” Moloka’i. I was in search of the famed Moloka’i bread, baked each evening at the town’s only bakery. It’s been that way for over eighty years. You walk down the alley and find a window at the back of the bakery. The price is around $10 for a loaf of bread cut in half and slathered with your choice of 1, 2, or 3 toppings. You can choose from cream cheese, butter, blueberry, mango, strawberry, cinnamon, or any combination of ingredients available that night. In the morning, leaving the hotel, the front desk girl recommended cinnamon and cream cheese instead of the cinnamon and butter I was prepared to ask for. I asked at the bread window, “Which one would you choose?”
The answer, “Cream cheese and cinnamon is sweeter than the butter.”
I left with a brown paper bag with a hot loaf of cream cheese and cinnamon bread. Being so late at night and with a snorkeling appointment scheduled for the first thing in the morning, I did not try to be a hero. I chose to eat only a small portion, just for the experience. It was delicious!
The next morning, I beat the chickens and was up at 4 am. I got dressed and after packing a few essentials like a good sunscreen (see blog on packing sunscreen), water, and a couple of snacks, I was off to the pier not far from my hotel. I was to be a guest of Moloka’i Fish and Dive company. After preparations were complete, and safety instructions are given, we were off to find not one but two spots for snorkeling! There were others on the boat who had come for SCUBA diving. We were told because a SCUBA excursion is a longer outing, those of us snorkeling would enjoy about 45 extra minutes of water time. Bonus!
The water was warm, clear and the reef below was vibrant and alive, showing its colors of green and occasionally blue. The sky, the distant islands (Lanai and Maui), white puffy clouds, and great chemistry among the guests made for a seriously fulfilling trip. As we left, we were told the company has a food truck called Ono Fish and Shrimp, which was available for lunch not far away. They featured fresh-caught fish. Mmmmmmm fish and chips!
I felt like a kid who had just gotten out of school early, as I now had a full day ahead of me with nothing planned. What should I do? Where should I go next? Time and choices are wonderful, when served together!
I decided to drive to the beach. I drove at 35-45 miles per hour. I drove. And I drove. And I drove. The island is not that big, but when traveling at this speed, it may as well be! Driving slowly gives you the opportunity to spy on people’s houses, the cars they drive, and the amazing surrounding island. So, I really didn’t mind much. When I got to the end of the island, where I was told the best swimming beach was located, the weather had suddenly turned. The waves looked rough, and the water was brown and murky. I had learned on an earlier snorkel dive in Kauai that sharks like the murky waters. Besides, everyone was making a dash to their cars. I turned to make the long slow drive back to the Hotel Moloka’i. I was anxious to find a restroom, and the steady rain on my windshield didn’t help.
Almost 45 minutes later, I pulled into the hotel parking lot and sprinted through sprinkling rain to my room, where a clean restroom awaited me. Relief, at last!
Now where to? Let’s go to the other side of the island! I understand that Bill at Purdy’s Macadamia Nut farm was open and giving tours. I called him up and asked if I would be able to take a tour. “Oh sure!”, he says, “I have some people showing up at 2 pm!”
Thinking it would be economical timewise I said, “You want me to show up at 2”? I was fumbling to get the map the front desk had given me.
He replied, “Yes, show up at 2 and maybe call at 2:30 for the directions”.
?
I thought, “Hey, I’m on Moloka’I, so I decide there’s no rush. Whenever I show up, if he wants to show me around, I’ll be lucky!”
Bill proceeded to give me the directions to the farm (even though it wasn’t 2:30 yet). “Drive until you get to 270 or 80 or something like that and turn. Drive until you get to the high school, and then turn up behind it a ways. There you will find me. There’s a sign.”
It had taken a while to get these directions, so I decided not to question them. I’d go to the front desk and ask for clarification. The well-meaning young woman at the front desk knew exactly how to get there. She basically repeated verbatim his directions; only adding the colors of a few houses along the way. “No, don’t go to those. Just drive past them.”
I know that trial and error will be my best friend. I looked at the map the hotel had given me earlier… none of the roads were marked with names. The map didn’t show all the roads… just a few, here and there. Convinced it must not be that hard, I headed out.
When I didn’t find the nut farm by 3 pm, I figured Bill would have forgotten I was coming, so I decided to head to the beaches on the other side of the island. These were several miles of white sand beaches, but the water was said to be rough and not good for a tourist like me to navigate, especially alone. Still, I couldn’t wait to behold the white sand and “guaranteed beautiful” views!
I didn’t find the beaches (see earlier driving), but I drove all over that Island like I was a real estate agent looking for a new house to represent. I covered it all! I drove into an area that looked like a large National Park you might find on the mainland. There was a long two-lane road flanked with tall, heavy dense growth on either side. It abruptly ended where I (accidentally) found “the Phallic Rock” and the overlook of Kalaupapa at Pala’au State Park! I could not have found it, if you’d given me a map!
I got out and explored this ancient sacred area, hiking back to find a five-and-a-half-foot-tall phallic shaped rock that was said to be the remains of a man named Nanahoa. His story is that if you come to the rock with presents, you will leave and become pregnant. I thought, “There’s a whole segment of our country who I hope does not make this hike and find this rock!”
By now the sun was starting to set for the night, so I would need to leave unless I wanted to navigate the road at night. It would be just my luck to have some island creature pop out of the woods and run across the road, causing me to wreck my mint green Ford Fiesta rental.
(Unfortunately, I had already run over a rooster my first day on the road.) I would also need to return to the hotel and pack my things. This concluded my last full day on Moloka’i.
Tomorrow: Lana’i!
OK, I couldn’t resist, I made one more phone call at the second “2-mile marker”. I called Dick Wheeler and asked him if I could come to his plumeria farm in the morning?
“Yes, stop by at 8:00 am!” His directions were simply “drive until you see the plumeria trees just past downtown”.
“Is there a sign?”
“No sign, just look for the trees.”
Oh boy. I see a pattern unfolding with driving directions on this island. I would have no time to do a full search in the morning. My flight was at 11:00am.
Preparing for the worst, I checked out of the hotel, packed the car and said my silent farewells to the property’s early birds.
Sure enough, as I drove, I SAW THEM! There were no flowers or distinguishing marks on them, but I spotted a large acreage with what I surmised were the very same trees repeatedly planted in a pattern. It just had to be them and, just to confirm it, there was no sign! The Moloka’i driver’s re-education had been completed! I made a U-turn across the street in the driveway of what is now called “Bayer” (formerly Monsanto). Probably, nothing about that later.
I walked cautiously to Dick’s side door and found him calling out from inside, “Greg, is that you”?“Yep!” I made my way past the porch and into the shipping room. Dick and his wife own a very large Plumeria farm that makes Leis for all the islands and even ships them to the mainland for special events. Not only was I there to see his farm but I had come to see if I might be able to represent Dick’s leis in my hometown.
As we toured the property, he explained the crops of flowers were becoming fewer and fewer. He had several issues affecting his trees. He said he’d been somewhat successful at getting some of the trees turned around but was not very hopeful for others. Slightly sarcastically, I asked if he thought it had anything to do with his neighbor across the street.
“No”, he replied. He assured me that they’ve been very helpful to him. He gave me a very thoughtful and detailed tour of his trees and we came back to his yard. He pulled out a couple of dusty chairs and indicated he wanted me to sit. Only briefly thinking of the white linen pants I was wearing to be on point for my next stop of Lana’i, I sat. It is what it is. Enjoy the heck out of what comes next, because it was completely unexpected. As I sat, Dick brought up all the subjects one would not talk about at the dinner table. (Except sex. We never got to that one. I was thankful for that, too.) I won’t go into the details of our conversation. And even though it was slightly awkward having him tell me an off-color anti “Californian” joke, I could still see the person sitting there. He was just as human as I was. He added a bit of extra seasoning to my visit, so it was a positive experience, after all!
Let’s go to Lana’i!
